How to Sew Improv X and O Blocks

Blocks 4 and 6 of my modern sampler quilt are improv X and O blocks.  I learned the technique for sewing improv curves at the last BAMQG retreat.  The quilt I made with those squares is currently sitting in my UFO pile.

The nice thing about sewing improv curves is that its very forgiving.  Even so, I suggest trying a test block first to get the hang of cutting the curves.

My finished blocks are 8.5"x8.5" and my instructions will make 2 blocks.

Start by cutting a total of eight 6" squares of at least 3 different fabrics.  Stack them right sides up in groups of two.  By that I mean put the right side of one square together with the wrong side of the other square.  Each stack of two should contain two different fabrics.

If you want to make a finished block that's a different size you can easily adjust the size of your starting block.  Simply divide the size of your finished block (minus seam allowance) in half and add 2 inches.  So for a 12" finished block, your starting blocks would be 8".

Now for the fun/scary part!  From each stack cut a quarter circle (see photo) starting about 2" from the corners.

Don't make your curves too sharp (or square) or it will be difficult to sew.  See an example at the end of this post.

The final blocks look best if there in variation in the way you cut each curve.

Next is the trick bit - pinning and sewing the curves.  For each stack of two, pair up the inner piece of one color with the outer piece of the other color.  With right sides together pin at the mid point.  Then pin the remaining bits of the edges together.

As you can see from the photo, I put the "inner" piece on the bottom and the "outer" piece on the top. I found that sewing that way results in a much smoother curve.  See a not so sucessful example at the end of this post.

As you sew, you may find that the pins are "off."  That is that the edges no longer match up well.  Don't worry, just remove your pins and keep sewing, lining up your edges as you go.  This will keep your seam flat.  Since you will trim off a fair amount of fabric at the end it's OK if the pieces move around a bit.

Press your square flat turning the seam allowance toward the outer piece (it will naturally want to go that way).  Using a little steam can help massage your curves flat.

Now pair up your squares again.  Mix them up a bit - don't pair the same two squares up with each other.  Again stack them right sides up.  The curves should line up too.  Cut another curve inside the previous curve.  See the photo for an example.

Pin and sew the same way as before.  Press.  Trim each block to 4.5" square and sew four squares together to make an 8.5" finished square.  I created Xs and O with my blocks, but you can arrange your 4.5" square in whatever pattern you like.

I made a few mistakes along the way with these blocks.  I found that cutting the curves too sharply (squarish) made them harder to sew.  In the photo below, the curve on the left is flatter and easier to sew than the curve on the right.

I mentioned that it's easier to sew the curve when the "inner" piece is on the bottom and the "outer" curve is on the top.  This allows you to see what's going on with the outer fabric and move things around to keep the seam flat.  Otherwise I found that the outer fabric will tend to pucker as you see in the photo below.

I used green fabrics in the blocks for my sampler quilt.  This time I made the inner curves a little rounder and the outer curves a little flatter than I did in the tutorial blocks.

I hope you try this technique!  It's a fun and easy way to sew curves.

I'm linked up with:
Late Night Quilter

How to Sew a Log Pyramid Block

Block #2 of my modern sampler is a log pyramid.  It's a mini version of my Log Pyramid quilt.

This block finishes at 8" but you can easily scale it to other sizes.

Since this is a scrappy block I don't have precise fabric requirements to give.

Instead these general guidelines
--one triangle of fabric about 2.5" tall by 2.5" wide (including seam allowance).  Any shape triangle will do.
--strips of at least 3 different fabrics 1.5" wide.  Length of the strips will vary.  On the 8" square, I used 25" long strips for the first 3 rings of the triangle.  After that 18" strips (or smaller) were enough.

On the log pyramid quilt I used strips of various widths but I thought that would be too overwhelming in an 8" block.  I might try varying widths in a larger version of this block.

To begin, I used my "mini 45 degree" ruler to cut a 2.5" by 2.5" triangle.  But you can cut any shape of triangle you like.  You could even cut it freehand for a wonky pyramid.

Next I started sewing my strips around the triangle "log cabin style".  I started with what will be the bottom edge of the block and worked clockwise.  I used my ruler to even up the corners after each strip was sewn on.

I chose the fabric for each row randomly by closing my eyes and picking a strip from a pile.

After each strip was added I put my block against my 8.5" square ruler to check my progress.  After starting the second ring I decided that I didn't need to add more rows to the bottom.

I squared off the left and top corner so I know where to stop sewing my strips.  I left some extra fabric when I trimmed just in case.

Now it was just a matter of adding strips to each side of the pyramid until I filled the square.  I made my square larger than 8.5" inches so I would have some flexibility in the position of the inner triangle when I did the final trim.  After every row I checked against my ruler.

And the final step was to trim my block to 8.5" square.

For my 2016 Modern Sampler I repeated the process with different fabrics.

I hope you try the log pyramid block!